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  Last updated: 12/5/2020

Brakes, Rims, & Wheels



Sealed Hub Maintenance

To check for maintenance status remove the wheels from the bike. Turn the axles slowly with your fingers - you will feel a slight but smooth hydraulic resistance. If an axle either turns roughly or spins freely with no resistance, you need to do some maintenance. Roughness can indicate damaged bearings, too little resistance means the lubrication is gone, usually because it's been washed out by lots of rainy rides or improper bike-cleaning techniques (using high-pressure sprayers or getting solvent into the bearings).

Rear hubs are a bit more complicated to handle, front hubs are more user friendly. It does help to have the right tools. To regrease a hub, pull off the dust caps or pry them out by carefully wedging an X-Acto blade between each cap and hub. You'll see the plastic seals covering the bearings. Lift these by slipping the blade beneath, being very careful not to bend the seals.

Once you see the bearings, you can add grease if they're just dry, or take the extra step of cleaning them with solvent, drying them, and repacking them if they're gritty. The seals will pop back into place with gentle hand pressure.

Wheel Sets/Rims

How important is wheel weight, total weight as well as weight of the rim? A friend of mine is thinking about upgrading his wheel set. He recently bought a new touring bike and wants to upgrade components on his old frame to ride (unloaded) with friends. He assumed a more expensive wheel set would help him keep up with his buddies, and asked my thoughts. There is as much hype around wheels and rim weight as around nutritional supplements. What are the facts?

This link is one of the best reviews I have seen. It provides the math and then puts things into real life perspective with examples. (Want more detail? Take a look at my favorite site.) Here are some numbers he calculated for a training ride - a 6.5 hour solo ride, 1200m/3940ft of climbing, and an average speed 31 kph/19 mph.

Are these achievable goals? I need to do a little more work to see how hard it is, for example, to decrease rolling resistance by 50%. The major points of the discussion, and I'll quote directly: Bottom line? If you are racing, then considering an expensive wheel set makes sense. If you are a weekend warrior, or doing recreational riding, durability is a much more important reason to upgrade to new wheels. And if you have some extra dollars to spend, good tires make more sense than lighter rims. In the end... "'s the rider pushing the pedals that matters most and out your wheels will not make you the next Eddy Merckx."

I decided to see if I could use online information to pull together a few online links for my friend. The goal - to find a solid $500 - $750 wheel set for his training bike upgrade. Here is what I found this AM (1/27/2016).

Spokes - it is true that the more weight further from the hub, the harder it is to accelerate a wheel. Total wheel weight is related to the number (and weight) of the spokes as well as the rim itself. So if you have fewer spokes, but need a stronger (read heavier) rim, the over all performance improvement from less weight, but the weight further from the hub, is a negative. Think about it, if you are considering low-spoke-count wheels to maximize performance, they almost never list the weight of the rim versus spokes . Instead, you're told the overall wheel weight. So if you are looking at two sets of high end wheels, of equal weight, find out the rim weight and go for the lighter rim.

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